Baja Fever
By Greg Niemann

Greg Niemann has had Baja Fever all his life; some of his favorite childhood memories go back to romping around Ensenada beaches during the early 1940s. He bought his first Baja hideaway in 1971 and still has a beach home there. A long-time Baja writer for various publications, Niemann is also the award-winning author of Baja Fever, Baja Legends, Palm Springs Legends, Big Brown: The Untold Story of UPS, and Las Vegas Legends. Visit Greg's website.

The Pearl of La Paz

It was pearls (perlas) that attracted Hernan Cortes to La Paz but he was unable to sustain his colony of Spanish settlers back in 1535... Read more

Looping the Vizcaino Peninsula

In looping the Vizcaino Peninsula back in 1990, our first destination was the fabled Malarrimo Beach, the north-facing landmass that serves as... Read more

The Casa Diaz Legacy

Rather than enjoying an idyllic island-studded bay, early visitors to Bahía de los Ángeles were attracted to deposits of gold, silver, and copper... Read more

Baja Islands of Fiction

One of the oldest and longest-enduring erroneous legends about the land called California is that many Europeans believed (Baja) California was an island... Read more

Baja’s Historic Halfway House

Back in the 1940s I remember my Dad driving the narrow old road from Tijuana to Ensenada. We went through hills stark and barren with white grass like peach fuzz... Read more

Blockbuster “Titanic” Filmed in Baja

When “Titanic” Director James Cameron accepted the Motion Picture Academy’s Oscar for Best Picture of the Year in 1998 he threw out his arms and proudly said... Read more

Early Characters on the Cape

One of the first Europeans to jump ship in Baja California and live among the Californios was Englishman Captain Thomas Ritchie... Read more

Padre Traders of Santo Domingo

Around the time the United States was being formed, another drama was being played on another part of the North American stage, the area called New Spain... Read more

Loop Back in Time

Take a time machine back 100 years or more. For the real thing, take a day-long driving loop into the rugged Baja mountains out of ... Read more

Cerveza Tecate – The Pride of Baja

The most ubiquitous symbol in Baja California is undoubtedly that of Tecate Beer, the “cerveza” that is a source of pride to Bajacalifornios ... Read more

The Last Outpost

The modest village of El Rosario, some 220 miles south of the U.S. border, could be considered as the birthplace of the northern Mexican ... Read more

Baja's First Settlement

It was conquistador Hernán Cortés, the conqueror of Mexico, who personally went on to Baja California in 1535 to establish the peninsula’s ... Read more

A San Ignacio Village Smithy

Throughout Baja California and Baja California Sur you have probably noticed local families with Anglo surnames. Many of those Anglo-named families ... Read more

The Tony Reyes Legacy

Yellowtail were all over the channel between Punta La Gringa and Smith Island. It was hot stand-up fishing action, the feisty yellowtail chasing ... Read more

White Salt, Gray Whales, and the Black Warrior

There was no warrior there, even though the translation of Guerrero Negro means “Black Warrior.” The name “Guerrero Negro,” the largest town... Read more

Cruz Roja – Helping Hand in Baja

Most people appreciate a comfort zone, even when they travel. They want to feel safe and protected. That’s why they buy automobile insurance... Read more

Buena Vista Launches East Cape

These days when you think of the East Cape of Baja California Sur, fishing resorts automatically come to mind. However, it wasn’t... Read more

Beyond Guadalupe's Wineries

What else can one do in a famous wine valley besides partake in winery tours and enjoy samples of the of eclectic palette offerings?... Read more

Rancho Meling

Even though it’s been a quarter century (1996) since I last visited the historic Meling Ranch up in the high country of the San Pedro Martir, apparently it hasn’t changed much... Read more

Mariachis – The Tempo of Mexico

The uplifting sounds and homey folk lyrics of mariachi music has become an integral part of the Mexican culture and history. Indeed... Read more

Cows with an Ocean View

Americans have been flocking to the Baja California coastline seeking ocean view properties for years. To about 7,000 cows... Read more

Camping on the Beach – 1985

Instead of prairie schooners, horses and wagons, our three vans formed the circle around our camp’s outer perimeter. Assorted tables and boxes... Read more

Wyatt Earp in Baja

Legendary frontiersman Wyatt Earp was perhaps best known for the infamous 1881 gunfight at the O.K. Corral in Tombstone. But the part-time... Read more

“Unexplored” Baja Lures Adventurers

As a schoolboy in the 1920’s, Marquis McDonald was intrigued by explorers and dreamt of possible adventures. While still a young... Read more

Walker’s Army Overthrows Baja

The most infamous American to set foot in Baja California was likely William Walker, a diminutive southerner who went there to establish... Read more

Pirates Hit Jackpot in Baja

Pirates, those sword-dueling adventurers of yore have long been romanticized in opera, novels and movies. The reality... Read more

Horseback in Rosarito – 1957 Style

Vince and I scrambled up the rocky bluff from the beach. At the crest, we looked back to catch the early morning sun bouncing off the ocean. We... Read more

Inspiring Travelers to Baja

Some months ago, Baja enthusiast and fellow author David Kier (Baja California: Land of Missions) threw out this tickler via the Baja Nomad Forum: “Who were the Baja... Read more

Pasqual the Clam Man

“Clam Man here. I’m the Clam Man. Wanna buy some clams? My clams make you horny,” the bearded old man chanted as he dragged a full gunny sack through our... Read more

New Calimax for Puerto Nuevo

Beginning in the mid-1960s, I’ve watched the lobster village of Puerto Nuevo, B. C. grow from a few small dwellings on a dusty bluff to a vibrant tourist... Read more

A Moonlight Clambake

“Here’s one,” Leila said, “Left foot.” So I dove down, felt her left foot and pulled the small clam out of the sand beneath her toes. The water... Read more

Baja’s Colorful Cliffside Palettes

They’re considered the finest examples of cave art in the Western Hemisphere. Yet the centuries-old paintings in Baja California have been available... Read more

Mama Espinoza and the Flying Samaritans

Doña Anita (Mama) Espinoza of El Rosario, a legend among Baja travelers, is also credited as founding the Flying Samaritans... Read more

Street Bargains – Baja Style

Many Americans have a hard time passing up outdoor markets and garage sales. On Saturday mornings they are out among a veritable... Read more

A Tale of Two Leaders

Before Mexican statehood came to Baja California (Norte) in 1952 there were a series of territorial leaders and governors... Read more

The Subtle Surprises of Santiago

One of the most restful villages on the Baja California peninsula wasn’t always that way. A mission established in 1724... Read more

The Legend of the Lost Mission

The Jesuit Order of the Catholic Church had for over 70 years defied incredible physical odds in establishing a foothold in forbidding... Read more

Hotel Serenidad: Fly-in for a Pig Roast

Mulegé to many Baja travelers means the Hotel Serenidad, a tropical fly-in resort down near the mouth of the Santa Rosalía (or Mulegé)... Read more

Santa Rosalía, Baja’s Copper Town

The sparkling Sea of Cortez looming in the distance is a refreshing sight after miles and miles of mostly barren land. However, first-timers driving down... Read more

John Steinbeck’s Baja Adventures

John Steinbeck, California’s most prominent gift to the world of literature, was yet another American attracted to the wilds... Read more

The First California Winemaker

Much has been written lately about the fine wine and vineyards of Valle de Guadalupe near Ensenada. But it was a Baja California mission outpost... Read more

Fishing & Golf Tourney in Loreto

Talk about something new! The flyer from the Villa del Palmar at the Islands of Loreto clearly said “Fishing and Golf Tournament.” Now, I’d been in... Read more

Rancho Santa Ynez

Because of its strategic position far from anywhere, many Baja travelers along Highway 1 spend the night in the Cataviña area, an enchanting... Read more

Ensenada’s El Rey Sol

Serving French and international cuisine along with local Mexican fare, the El Rey Sol in Ensenada is Baja’s most honored restaurant and still reigns... Read more

The Towers of Tijuana

Tijuanans call them “Las Torres,” the twin, 28-floor, 295-foot skyscrapers that in 1982 became Baja California’s tallest buildings. The west tower... Read more

Van in the Sand

It was summer of 1983 when Leila and I left San Felipe for a day visit to the community of Puertecitos. Back in the mid-1970s, I had bounced down that... Read more

Rosarito’s Legendary Hotel

There’s a graceful old dowager in Baja that seems to wear her age well. She’s the legendary Rosarito Beach Hotel and Spa, the first and still the biggest... Read more

Catching Baja Fever

An acquaintance who knew I was a Baja buff once commented that she and her husband had gone down to Baja California the previous summer. “We had a great... Read more

Bahía de los Ángeles Pioneer: Dick Daggett

Today’s travelers to Bahía de los Ángeles, that idyllic little village on the sparkling Sea of Cortez are usually interested in fishing and... Read more

“Bullitt” Goes to Baja

The Baja 1000, the “Grandaddy of Off-road Races,” will celebrate its 50th anniversary in November 2017. Through the years many well-known participants... Read more

When the Socialists Invaded Baja

The Mexican Revolution that began in 1910 spawned many changes for that country. Along with radical political upheaval, there were also stories of heroism... Read more

“Seat Your Beautiful Selves” - La Fonda on the Bluff

I heard through the Baja grapevine that Orest “Joe” Dmytriw (Who answers to either “Joe” or “Dimitri”) had reopened the original La Fonda... Read more

Arturo Grosso – Baja’s Road Builder

Baja’s long-anticipated eastern connection with the Transpeninsular Highway (Highway 1) is nearing completion. Soon travelers, especially... Read more

Scammon's Saga

Today, one of the most exciting encounters Baja California visitors enjoy is to get close and actually pet a whale. Over the past few decades, whale... Read more

The Russians Of Guadalupe Valley

In case you haven’t noticed, the Guadalupe Valley has mushroomed in importance with more wineries, restaurants, accommodations, attractions... Read more

The Case Of The Mysterious Traveler

In the late 1940s, the pavement of Mexico Highway 1 ended not many miles south of Ensenada. The smooth macadam road abruptly came to an end... Read more

A Baja Dental Holiday

When asked recently about dental care in Baja, I had to admit I was stumped. I had not been to a Mexican dentist in over 20 years, and back then... Read more

Lost In The Dump

Sometimes it’s hard to find the right dirt road in Baja. On a map, a single road might be shown leaving a highway to take you straight... Read more

Loreto Welcomes Adventurers

The Loreto panguero who took us fishing that day was as old as dirt. Turns out he was a couple of months younger than me – well, that’s still... Read more

The Big Tuna and the Storm

The tuna hit the bait hard, snapping me out of my reverie. It was 1998 and we were fishing out of Baja’s La Paz area. Leaving Punta Arena, we... Read more

Day Of The Dead

It was chilly as we approached the cemetery late that moonless night. Lights from numerous candles and a few flashlights cast eerie illumination... Read more

Mexicali

Mexicali, the state of Baja California’s capital and second largest city, was a hot (120+ degree days) barren desert with dust storms and... Read more

Rancho La Puerta

The bucolic border village of Tecate may be home to the famous brewery, but it’s the Rancho La Puerta spa that really put Tecate on... Read more

The Case Of The Missing Fan Belt

It was May 1976 and the Baja Highway was only a couple of years new. A buddy and I had driven to La Paz and Cabo, looped the old dirt road through... Read more

Mr. Smith in Baja

He was once again on my mind as I bounded down the dusty Baja dirt road from Santo Tomás to La Bocana. “He” was Jack Smith (1916-1996) and I idolized... Read more

A Big San Felipe Welcome

San Felipe, that northernmost village on the Baja California peninsula near the broad, sandy mouth of the Colorado River, is unlike most Mexican towns... Read more

Boy Detectives on a Baja Beach

"There’s another one," said Fritz, pointing to the sand in his authoritative manner that came with being the oldest kid in the family. Indeed... Read more

The Seri Indians Of Tiburon Island

In 1905 Professor Thomas Grindell and a party of three others never returned from a gold-seeking expedition to Tiburon Island in the upper reaches of the Sea... Read more

The Filibuster of 1890: Plotting to Annex Baja

In a clandestine 1890 meeting, the San Diego conspirators reviewed their plot to seize Baja California. Smug in anticipated success to establish... Read more

Jack Dempsey's Ensenada Casino

When I was a kid, I was in awe over the large white castle on the beach, a hybrid of Spanish and Moorish style with tile roof and wondrous... Read more

Diving for Sea Urchins

The rusty old engine sputtered to a halt. Ohmygod! Surely Luis was in trouble. He was on the ocean floor at a depth of 25 meters (75 feet) and that.... Read more

The Prison With Open Doors

Baja’s languid picturesque village of Mulegé has endured an interesting life. The lush valley town straddles a fresh water river that empties... Read more

When Baja Cornered the Onyx Market

While El Marmol means "marble" in Spanish, the product from the central Baja quarry of El Marmol is actually the more valuable onyx. At one time this... Read more

The Glitter of Agua Caliente

At first, it seemed the racing gods didn’t want Tijuana to have a racetrack. The original track, the Tijuana Jockey Club, was destroyed twice in its first year... Read more

La Unica, a Baja Hideaway

Imagine being on your own private island with a small staff cooking meals and bringing made-to-order drinks at your command. A place where you can lay on the... Read more

The Mysterious Islas Los Coronados

Just offshore from northern Baja California, the intriguing Islas Los Coronados have long captured imaginations and nurtured tales of yore. Being only 18 miles... Read more

Mike’s Ranch in the Sky

It’s rare that an entrepreneur switches from one type of business to another, and rarer yet when the change is a drastic one. But 45 years ago Mike... Read more

The Village of Puerto Popotla

Fishing villages are scattered throughout Mexico, dotting the coastlines of Baja as well as mainland Mexico. Hardy pescadores (fishermen)... Read more

Kayaking Conception Bay

By the late nineties it seemed that every second car heading down Baja’s Highway 1 had been festooned with brightly colored polyurethane torpedoes... Read more

The Tranquility of La Paz

When people ask what my favorite place in Baja is, my first question is favorite for what? I have favorite fishing spots, favorite secludeds... Read more

Guadalajara: Mexico's Second City

The trio of guitarists enthusiastically belted out the melodious “Gua-da-la-jara, “Gua-da-la-jaaaa-raaaa,,” drowning out city noises and reminding.... Read more

Into the San Felipe Desert

Way up the canyon Bruce waved his arm that all was clear. I turned to the next dune buggy in line and gave it the go-ahead signal. It slowly climbed... Read more

El Pescadero: Respite on the Tropic of Cancer

I found a captivating newer resort in an enchanting old setting, right on the Tropic of Cancer. Actually that imaginary globe-circling demarcation... Read more

Finding Real del Castillo

It was back in 1998, and my timing for an adventure into Baja California’s northernmost mountains could have hardly been worse. The punch of violent... Read more

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Baja FeverBy Greg Niemann

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Baja Fever
By Greg Niemann