pixel

In the Belly of Baja
By Misty Tosh

Seafood, Sailboats and the Sea

By Misty Tosh
@bigsweettooth

Enola Sailboat Baja Enola Sailboat Baja

I have spent most of my adult life attempting to sort out where to keep my sailboat. I have always reasoned, if I could just manage to figure out that one thing, my life would somehow be complete and have greater purpose. I’ve had a variety of sailing vessels – all the way from the frigid waters of Lake Michigan (summer is good, but after three months, it’s just way too cold), to the smashing gray of the Pacific (packed-to-the-gills Marina del Rey, where the prices finally just got too high) and now finally, after all these years…my current sailboat (a 36’ Chung Hwa ketch pirate ship) has finally landed on the awe-inspiring Sea of Cortez. Right where she belongs.

It’s been a long time coming and truly, Enola (Alone spelled backwards) finally feels like she is where she needs to be. The path getting her there was an arduous one, but now that she is there full time – nestled up against the mountains at the impeccable Marina Escondido - it’s all the more reason for my gang to head to Baja for long, long spells…partaking in piles of fresh seafood and maybe, as the whimsy strikes, actually heading out and fishing for our own this summer. And tip to the wise, a few extra feet on a sailboat really do make all the difference in the world.

Here are a few super chill spots to partake in some of the freshest seafood you will ever scarf down in the Baja. All of it so fresh, it was if I reeled it in myself. On my own sailboat. On the Sea of Cortez. Yep, 2019 is shaping up to be a banner year when it comes to life goals.

Enola Sailboat Baja Enola Sailboat Baja

Since the historical town of Loreto has become the ultimate home base for my girl, I have been spending lots of time roaming her streets lately. Quick jaunts down the peninsula have been happening more frequently (it’s about 1.5 days drive – with doggies – from the border) and one sweet spot I discovered on this last trip was Jr’s and George’s. Tucked into a cozy, tree lined nook off the main plaza, this family owned restaurant has everything and then some going for it. Super friendly staff, incredible margaritas, crazy cheap prices, and the perfect location. It’s the kind of place the locals call a constant hang out because of the vibe and the ice-cold beer. Kids running about add to the familial scene and the appreciative owners seem to know everyone who strolls through the gate.

But, most importantly, it’s the food that keeps me thinking about this place. They just amp it up an extra notch when it comes to the offerings and the presentation for a wee little Mexican institution. They bring back the crowds with little touches like homemade tortilla chips with chunky mango salsa - on the house, mind you. Insanely cheap fish and shrimp tacos stuffed in thick flour tortillas make their way to the table on cast iron platters with a litany of perfect toppings right behind them – pickled onions, creamy ranch cream sauce, grilled onions, spicy salsa, cold cabbage slaw and guacamole all end up taking their tacos ($1.50 each) over the edge and turning them into a meal in all by themselves. How can so much food, this good, be so cheap?! Made to order chargrilled shrimp as big as prawns come out with a rich and tangy tamarind sauce, all flanked by a soft pile of Mexican rice and matchstick steamed vegetables. Nice touch. Jorge looked at me like I was crazy when I asked him if he made a good margarita. Turns out, he only carries top shelf liquor and has been making margaritas since he was born practically. Now, that’s an even nicer touch! And, something I’ve not come across in Baja in all my years, the music playing from the sound system is all Christian, all the time. Every single tune. I couldn’t believe my dining companion knew all the words. Where in the world are we, I though as I bit into another shrimp? Well, if you must know…just a nice coastal village on the best sea in the world.

Shrimp Jr’s and George’s Loreto Baja Shrimp Jr’s and George’s Loreto Baja

Now, on down the coast a ways, is the epic seafood hut and partially hidden from sight, Mariscos Evaristos Hermanos. We happened upon this oversized shack on a spur of the moment trip from Los Barriles to SJD – just out and about looking for good food on a Saturday afternoon. If a massive palapa is the roof and old timey pictures of Che Guevera and wanted signs of Pancho Villa pepper the walls, you know it must be a spot worth hitting the breaks for (well, that and gas, which is to be found at the Pemex across the street). Turns out, we were correct.

Within moments after sitting down, our table was loaded with shiny, just shucked oysters and perfect salty little clams, each topped with a sliver of fresh lime so juicy you could put an eye out with the squeeze remnants. But that tiny lime is just about all you need with seafood this ripe from the sea. Next came the goblet of ceviche, then the exquisite fried fish tacos, all with layers of crunchy cabbage, thick crema and snips of avocado weighing them down. Between the kitsch (think tiny superman toys dangling from trees, giant shark piñata’s, huge rounds of coral, and a mess of live birds tweeting in a pretty yellow cage) and the string of happy locals piling through the entry for their weekend feast of all the goods the Cape has to offer, we were smack in the middle of a real-deal Mexican seafood nirvana.

Not a lick of English was spoken though, so be prepared to point and practice your combat Spanish like us…sometimes all one needs is a glance at the table next to them to know what to order. Accompany the point with one word: todos (all), and you will be set for life.

Oysters Mariscos Evarisos San Jose del Cabo Oysters Mariscos Evarisos San Jose del Cabo

Jr’s and George’s, Loreto
Ave. Savatierra 36
23880 Loreto
011.52.613.688.1738
Directly across the plaza from the church as you are walking toward the Sea of Cortez.

Mariscos Evarisos Hermanos, San Jose del Cabo
Across the street from the Pemex right before you get to the airport. Located on the West side of the road.
011.52.624.226.4499

4.8 81 Reviews
  • user logo
    Jose Paez
    From logo

    Had a great experience getting insurance at Baja Bound, before I always stoped at the border to purchase my insurance, not anymore. By the...

  • user logo
    Stefano Pensa
    From logo

    I talked with Yara and she was extremely helpful. She took the time to explain the different options available to me and I was able to get...

  • user logo
    JUSTINE SERRANO
    From logo

    I purchased insurance through them & CHUBB for our trip to San Felipe. Unfortunately, we had to cancel due to our vehicle having an oil...

  • user logo
    Christian Minor
    From logo

    Team were on point, provided inside information, prices were great and they had my proposal already in the system when I called back....

  • user logo
    Joey Digiovanni
    From logo

    Easy to work with 😉. Always courteous and helpful

  • user logo
    George
    From logo

    Excellent customer service

  • user logo
    Kellye Pummill
    From logo

    Fast and easy!

  • user logo
    robert kepper
    From logo

    They are very good . There website  doesn't show you need a title to bring  a  vehicle across the border.I was stopped and told I had to...

  • user logo
    Jennifer Toups
    From logo

    Baja Bound is and has been my go to Mexico insurance company.  The website is extremely easy to use, keeps all your info for a quick...

  • user logo
    Cesar Lopez
    From logo

    Very convenient,  great price !!

  • user logo
    Louis Schneidman
    From logo

    I had an awesome experience with Baja Bound.  Family owned and highly personal, top notch customer service.  I have total peace of mind...

  • user logo
    Phil Noble
    From logo

    If you’re looking for Mexican Insurance that you can trust and feel good about while traveling in Mexico, you’ve found the right place....

  • user logo
    Jeff Bunker
    From logo

    Great coverage options . Price buy and print policy , very quick and easy , highly recommend them when driving in Mexico

  • user logo
    Burrell DeVine
    From logo

    Easy to navigate and very competitively priced! I had to call in and add an additional day, they couldn't have been any more pleasant to...

  • user logo
    Nereyda Torres
    From logo

    Me gusta la asuguranza porque la puedes comprar por un dia y te asegura en Mexico por el tiempo que vas ya sea hasta por mes (Translated...

  • user logo
    james whitmer
    From logo

    Best insurance I've had so far

  • user logo
    Rail1riders
    From logo

    Quick, easy, well designed website and not just for Baja. Good rates for temporal residente gringos. We’re not living in Jalisco. Printed...

  • user logo
    Matt B
    From logo

    I always use Baja Bound to source my insurance while traveling to Mexico.  Fortunately, I have not had to file any claims. I do appreciate...

  • user logo
    Refugio I. Rochin
    From logo

    Excellent online and by direct phone. Spanish and English with proven response to questions. Website is very informative about driving in...

  • user logo
    Kelly Carney
    From logo

    Yara is very helpful and explains everything. Love working with companies like this.

  • user logo
    Slumdog Gump
    From logo

    Changed some money. Good rate and friendly people.

  • user logo
    Jeff G
    From logo

    Went down to TJ June 11 2020 No problems going into TJ but the way back was a ordeal 6 hours in line to get back into the USA  but no...

  • user logo
    don letson
    From logo

    Great renewal process, if only south Dakota would do the same for car registration.

  • user logo
    len buckholtz
    From logo

    SIMPLE, STRAIGHTFORWARD. OLD GUYS LIKE THAT. WILL DEFINITELY USE IN 6 MONTHS IF STILL RUNNING AROUND THE WILDS OF BAJA.

  • user logo
    Susana Judd
    From logo

    Easy, quick and fair prices. Easy to deal with if needed.

  • user logo
    Seismic Waterfinder
    From logo

    Very excellent service, needed insurance for Mexico, price was fair. The custumer service rep was Yara

  • user logo
    Nicolas Dervé
    From logo

    Very good ans very fast. We hope all will ben good if we need it.

  • user logo
    Blake Glassco
    From logo

    I will never drive south of the border without Baja Bound in my center console. I was in an accident a couple hours south of Ensenada and...

  • user logo
    JohnPaul Gemelli
    From logo

    Baja Bound could not have made it an easier ... also, I made a mistake and called them having to leave a message ... but, they called back...

  • user logo
    Jeff Brandt
    From logo

    so far so good, however I have read good things about them