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It has been many years since I visited Viña de Liceaga, one of the earliest wineries in the Guadalupe Valley established in 1993. Their famous Vendimia Paella festival is held every year under the live oak trees. This year it will be held on August 17th. Before learning more from Suri Singh-Ortega, the Manager of Wine Tasting, I'll visit the outdoor kitchen, Robleza. Driving through the front entrance I find the dirt road that meanders to the left of the main building. I appreciate the deep shade the live oak forest provides during the hottest months in the valley. Patterns of sunlight and dark shadows dance everywhere. This is a StoryTeller’s dream. I park in the shade and follow the graceful brick path to enter into the restaurant that has no walls.
Robleza is known for some of the oldest living oak trees. Roble is Spanish for "oak." No one is certain what the age of the famous tree at the center of the restaurant is, but she is reported to be at least 500 years old. At that time in history there were only the Kumiai traveling through, and this matriarch was but a seedling. The nuts from the live oak were the primary food source for the tribes who were hunter-gathers. Yet many families today carry on the tradition. It is hard to pass this ancient living thing and not stop to wonder about its life and the hundreds of years that it has seen.
I pick a table and instantly feel at peace as I looked out over the grape vines and east into the mountains. It is nearly time for harvest and the birds fly over to check the “bricks,” or the grapes' sugar content; they know the perfect moment when their juicy treat is ready. Lily comes to the table to welcome me. The menu is simple, yet features intriguing gourmet dishes offering breakfast and lunch. I take a little time to enjoy the Robleza touch and then indulged myself with the mushroom and spinach omelette and a natural lemonade. Feeling brave, I reached for a very mean looking hot sauce. Its attitude said, “I dare you.” A touch of habanero fire brought the gentle omelette alive pairing perfectly. The side salad of leafy lettuce, spinach, ripe cherry tomato had little blue berries hiding in the greenery. The locally handcrafted artisan bread was perfect for not leaving any tasty bite behind.
While eating I noted the very modern all stainless-steel kitchen in a little casita. The team of young chefs were happy and gave a wave. I perused the tempting choices including a seasonal omelette smothered in Poblano cream sauce that vegetarians will love. Unique to Robleza is the lamb omelette bathed in red sauce. Yet another gourmet idea was the mole chilaquiles with a fried egg, fresh cheese and finished with creamy avocado. Of course, there is the ever-present hamburger Robleza style with artisanal brioche bread, onion and bacon sauce with a touch of whiskey. For the kids they serve the artisan pizza. All these pair with special cold drinks from the fruit bar - tempting kiwi, lavender or coconut, including cold chocolate and kombucha. For a little stronger enjoyment are artisan beers, and a spicy margarita with chili jalapeño. Of course, you can begin your wine tasting here as the menu offers all of Liceaga’s best wines.
Robleza is magical. It would be a wonderful wedding location. One could just imagine the fairy lights twinkling in the ancient branches overhead. Reservations for parties are always welcomed. I chat with Lily and then ask her to sit within the great old tree to give a visual of the size of its trunk. If you had eight or ten friends holding hands you might be able to complete the circle of its girth. With a last thought as I leave, I am grateful to know that Liceaga loves its ancient oaks and they will be protected and cared for by the generations to come.
It is midday now and the temperature is going beyond 80 degrees. This is actually cool for the end of July. August into September will generally be in the high 90s to triple digits. This is the last push of nature to bring the grape to fruition. I met Suri Singh-Ortez in the beautiful Liceaga tasting room. We meet to update the story I wrote in 2016 for the Baja Bound Wine Country Guide. I wondered how many changes would have been made in my years away. I was about to be surprised and impressed.
Many years ago, the tasting fee was 350 pesos, about $18. I begin with, “What are you charging now?” Suri smiled, “It is the same, we didn’t change it. It includes four wines; one rose, two young reds and one premium. But we did add the five-wine option; one rose, two young reds, two premium reds for $50. I queried, “When I was here you were producing 5000 cases a year has that increased? Suri clarified, “Today the family is producing 10,000 cases from eight of its twenty acres. Since Eduardo Liceaga died, we are focusing on quality, not quantity.” A new feature is the wine tasting is held in the oak grove rather than the tasting room. Suri mentioned, “We created this during a time when people were not meeting indoors. It became so popular that the loyal tasters have demanded we serve out under the oaks.”
Viña de Liceaga is a nice sized boutique winery. All the wines have familiar names. At that time I was tasting the 2014 and 2015 bottlings. Today wine lovers can enjoy all the favorites from the past, now featuring the 2022 bottlings. In the tasting room there is an archive room of all the earlier wines which I had written about. I asked, “None survived the years? Suri clarified, “We sold everything, and because of this we often don’t know how the aging in the bottle progresses. But I do have to say that my wife and I found a bottle of 2014 Special Edition 43/60. We opened it and drank it.” He stops and almost sighs, “And it was really good.” Today there are two favorites, Sophia and Melvin.” These favorites are named for the Liceaga children, now adults managing the winery.
Suri boasts, “I believe we have the best Vendimia event in the valley. Nearly 2000 people will attend. It isn’t a Liceaga event. We rent the oak forest area. One hundred chefs submit their special Paella recipes. It will be graded to come up with the overall winner. Twenty different wineries from the valley will be giving tastings.” Suri might be a little prejudice, but history would probably prove him right. He himself graduated from Culinary School in Ensenada and will be participating. Teasing him I asked, “So, tell me what will make your Paella a winner over all the others?” He laughs, “Oh you should ask that question! Well, it is subtle and in the spices.” He hesitates but reveals. “It is the saffron and turmeric.”
It is a joy to visit the older wineries, ones that were established holding the true history and love of wine production. They have created a haven for those of us yearning for stress free time with one another. Viña de Liceaga is a true destination.
More Information:
Robleza hours: 9am to 3:30pm Thursday - Monday
Wine tasting hours: 10am to 4pm Wednesday - Monday
Vendimia tickets $1450 pesos, $80 US
Visit Viña de Liceaga's website.
