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words by Martina
Sometimes the best experiences come to us when we are off the beaten path. A little gem of a pizzeria named La Catrina is balanced on the bluff overlooking the Pacific in the small community of Primo Tapia. Here they offer unique, rustic Mexican pizza. At the entrance we are welcomed by a mural of her iconic face.
Before we enter, first, a little bit of history about La Catrina, the favorite icon for Mexico’s Day of the Dead festivities. She was created in 1910 by Jose Guadalupe Posada as a political satire to mock the wealthy Mexicans who mimicked European styles. Jose wanted to deliver an important message - a reminder that everyone dies, making all social classes equal.
We opened the bright green door and took a step inside. It is almost like entering a little art gallery of La Catrina nostalgia. Sunlight danced through the room bouncing off colorful walls and murals. Through the windows, the ocean surface was being whipped up by blustery winds. Across the deep blue water light and dark shadows played. As we walked further into the room and turned the corner, the vista was unobstructed. There was a moment of wonder as the seagulls sailed by at eye level. It is late afternoon and we know that the sunset is going to be glorious.
We catch the fragrance of burning wood. Flames in the huge brick oven devour the kindling. We are greeted by Reyes, chef and owner, and a quiet young woman who hands us a menu. The small intimate dining space is filled with heavy wooden tables. Soft jazz was playing. It’s time to browse La Catrina’s pizza menu. We are in Mexico and so one would expect lots of garlic, chorizo, and fresh vegetables from the local farms.
For the vegetarians the Margarita features fresh cherry tomatoes, basil and mozzarella. The Pizza Pesto is covered in fresh veggies - mushrooms, squash, bell pepper, cherry tomatoes and onion. A unique Pizza Taco is tempting - chorizo from the rancho, avocado, cheese and pepperoni. Now, for the meat lovers there’s the Meat Lover Pizza, piled liberally with three meats - chorizo of Argentina, pepperoni and bacon. The menu has the traditional favorites - Four Cheeses, Hawaiian and Pepperoni. But the one that was favored that day was the Pepperoni with Bacon. La Catrina is known for being generous with their toppings. The green salad is one of the best, artfully done with fresh seasonal vegetables and fruits.
While we waited for the fire to burn down into perfect coals, we watched Reyes tend to it. He rearranged the wood with a long handle spatula, and yes, he was singing to the fire. Reyes is well known in the community for his outstanding pizza. For many years he served people and was part of the entertainment. Several years ago, he risked everything to open up his own private little place, a spot on the bluff, with a million dollar view. While he is nearly a one man show, he does offer some of the best pizza in the area and people like his thin crust.
The fire roars and Reyes says it will be another 20 minutes for the perfect temperature. This is Mexico and time takes on a different expression here. I once was told that people from the US “spend” time. But here in Mexico we “make” time for friends and pleasure. It is a subtle shift in consciousness and pleasing as there is no rush. We enjoyed ourselves as the sun dipped towards the horizon.
For drinks you will be astounded at the size of their Margarita, and when in season, they serve the Bleeding Margarita with lemon, strawberry and orange. They serve only LA Cetto wines from the Guadalupe Valley. But should you come from there with your own bottle from your favorite vineyard, you are invited to bring it in. There is a corking fee. Of course you can pair your pizza with a cold beer. If you are one who likes an after-dinner coffee there is nothing better than the rich dark Mexican coffee, latte or cappuccino.
Our Pepperoni and Bacon pizza arrives. Every inch is covered. The sizzling bacon curls are a decadent addition to this scrumptious favorite. The evening crowd begins to come in. Things start late in Mexico. Everyone seems to know everyone else; a group chooses to sit outside on the patio. We all watched to see the green flash as the sun slid below the horizon. Well, not today, but it was a wonderful way to complete our “off the beaten path” experience.
Directions (Google Maps): From the north about 15 minutes south of Rosarito. Watch for the Cantamar exit. Turn left through town. At the only stoplight, make the first hard right down an incline and straight to the ocean. Safe parking in the residential area. La Catrina is open Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 4pm until the last person leaves. No reservations required.
